Gastronomy 101, a blog about food and Los Angeles restaurants

RECIPE: Parmesan Pull-Apart Rolls


A recent issue of Gourmet had a bunch of different dinner roll recipes. You don't have to persuade very hard to get me to make bread products. Baking is one of my favorite things to do, and now I have a whole bunch of rolls to try.

The first ones I tried were these Parmesan dinner rolls and they came out great. Before I made them, I looked over the comments on Epicurious and I was a little bit hesitant because a bunch of people said that these didn't taste good. To try to counter that, I added some herb salt I have to the top before baking, just to add some extra flavor.

However, the flavor on my rolls came out nice, even apart from the addition of the salt. I wonder what kind of cheese the people who complained used. I got a hunk of parmigiano reggiano and grated it myself using my Microplane, which is what the recipe called for. If you didn't use real parm reggiano, or you used the pregrated kind that comes in a powdery-like form, then perhaps that made a difference. I would definitely go for the real stuff and grate it out yourself just to be sure. It's a good workout for your arms. ;)

The one thing I didn't have for this recipe was the round cake pan it called for. However, I just used a rectangle one of similar dimensions and it worked fine. As long as you have something where the rolls can fit in similar proportion I'm sure it will be okay.

RECIPE: Parmesan Pull-Aparts

RECIPE: Lemon-Ginger Marmalade

One of the best parts of spring and summer is getting to preserve your favorite flavors for later use. Jellies, jams, pickles, etc. are all fun to make and let you save the fruits and vegetables that are in season so that you can enjoy them even in the winter.

I've tried to make marmalade once before and it didn't quite work. I used a recipe that didn't involve pectin, relying on the pectin in the fruit to thicken it and I ended up with a lemon syrup rather than a marmalade. Luckily it could still be used for something (ice cream!) but it wasn't what I was really trying to make.

This time I chose a recipe that was virtually foolproof and as a bonus it had an added ginger flavor that was really appealing to me. The only difficulty I had was in reducing the recipe, since I had a different size of pectin packet than the recipe anticipated so figuring out the amount to use was kind of tricky. I probably could have used a bit less than I did, but the marmalade still turned out great, if a bit stiff.

It's sweet, not tart and the ginger adds some kick. I find it really good on any sort of toasted bread item with butter, as the hot toast and the butter melt it down a little and it turns into a hot mass of flavors that is really delicious.

Serving suggestions: On buttered toast or english muffin; as a topping for yogurt, ice cream, or frozen yogurt.

Recipe: Lemon-Ginger Marmalade

EVENT: LA Wine Competition Preview and Tasting

The other day, I was invited to a preview tasting and showcase for the winners of the Los Angeles International Wine and Spirits Competition. The competition for wine takes place over three days, during which time a panel of 75 judges from all over the world tasted 3400 different wines. They were judged in three different categories this year based on price: $14.99 and under; $15-$29.99; and $30 and up.

In each price category there were "best in class" winners for each type of wine and from each group of "best in class" wines was chosen a "best in show" winner in each price category in red and white wines.

For the first time, electronic voting was implemented so that each judge placed their vote completely unaware of what others were voting. In previous years it was a hand-raising system, which could have influenced the votes, by others being allowed to see what the most prestigious judges were voting for. Not so anymore!


When I arrived, I had the opportunity to first take part in a fun little game. We were all sat at a table and each given tastes of the five "best in show" red wines. Two of them were in the low price category, one in the mid-price category, and two in the high category. (There were two ties).

I didn't do so well with the guessing. I was able to get the low price categories due to guesswork based on the grapes involved (I've only seen a very few Malbecs over $15; likewise, I figured a blend would be less expensive), but wasn't able to tell with the mid- and high categories.

When the answers were revealed, we noticed something very interesting. One of the best in show wines was a box wine. Not just a box wine, the "Target Wine Cube." Yup. It's a box of wine you can purchase at Target. And enough of the 75 judges voted it for it to be best in show. As for how I liked it, well, it was definitely a drinkable wine. It was very light for a cabernet blend and had a delicate spicy smell, although some people said it had almost no smell to them.

My personal favorite was the mid-range wine, a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. To me it had the nicest flavor - I'm terrible at describing wine the way some people do, but my notes say "cinnamon."


After the tasting I wandered around to each table, where the best in show whites and the other best in class winners were located. Most of the winners that I had heard of were the sort of popular favorites you can often find in the supermarket - Kendall-Jackson, Ravenswood, etc. Another box wine won the Cabernet Sauvignon award - Black Box, which markets itself as providing vintage dated wines in a box.

The only wine I really recognized and eagerly darted for was the Meritage winner, as it's a beloved wine from my homeland - Justin Vineyards Isosceles. Frankly, this one was the winner as far as I'm concerned and I think the best wine I tasted that day, but I am highly, highly biased. Also, it's like six times more expensive than the wine box, but could hold its own much better against a nice steak, I think.

Some other interesting things I tried were an "apricot wine" which won in the fruit wine category. It definitely tasted like apricot and was definitely something you'd have for dessert. I also had a riesling from New York and an Albarino from Virginia that were both decent and firsts for me with drinking wines from these states.



After the tastings, Michael Jordan, one of the judges, and a longtime resterauteur, gave us a little talk, and that was that. My take on these wines was that the large amount of judges and large amount of wines resulted in winners that were sort of "populist" wines. In other words, someone with a very refined palate and tastes is probably not going to make much of these, but for the average buyer who's looking for a good bargain on a wine they can have with an everyday dinner or pizza and burgers and whatnot, then the wines here represent some good values with tastes that have a wide appeal.

One of the things I would recommend taking a look at the list of winners for some ideas of different grapes to try if you stick to certain kinds usually, such as merlot, pinot noir, cabernet or chardonnay. There's a whole world of other stuff out there and you could do worse than to give some of these a try as a starting point to expand your palate.

If you are interested in trying the winners for yourselves, they will be on display at the LA County Fair in September, or at a special event at the Pomona Fairplex tomorrow night called Wine and Cars Under the Stars. They will have the wines available there and also the award-winning olive oils from their related competition will be available to try with grilled cheese sandwiches.

INFO: HR 2795 - Roadmap to End Global Hunger and Promote Food Security Act of 2009


In my attempt to do more than just show you pretty pictures of food and talk superficially about something to do with that food, I'd like to try to diversify my topics. Having a passion for something isn't just about enjoying it as a hobby, it's also about trying to support and maintain conditions that are ideal for pursuing your hobby.

For example, ideally hunters should be concerned with conservation and environmental preservation, since without thriving wilderness and healthy animal populations, they would not be able to hunt. Wine lovers should be concerned about global warming, since changes to the climate mess with a region's ability to produce wine. Sports fans should be concerned about integrity within the professional sporting world, as corruption tends to inhibit the spirit of competition that makes sports so enjoyable.

And food lovers? Food lovers should be concerned with food politics as well. Not only should we be concerned with sustainable, responsible food production and food safety, we should also be concerned with world hunger, because wouldn't we all enjoy our luxurious meals a little better knowing that people elsewhere are fed?

So in an attempt to keep myself and anyone who reads this informed, let me give a brief explanation of some current pending food legislation: HR 2795, or the "Roadmap to End Global Hunger and Promote Food Security Act of 2009." For convenience I will call it the Roadmap Act.

What the Act is based on: The Roadmap Act is based on several findings by the proponents of the bill, including:

1. The percentage of the world's population that is hungry has decreased from 37% to 17% in the last 40 years, and the U.S. has played a critical role in that.

2. While the percentage of hungry individuals has dropped, the actual number of hungry people has grown, with most hungry individuals in developing countries live in rural areas.

3. Many of the world's hungry individuals are children, and uneducated, and many of these children are dying of hunger. The children who survive are less productive, earn less, and are more likely to have malnourished children of their own.

4. The U.S. has decreased its support for agricultural development in recent years, as has the international community.

5. Food prices have been steadily increasing with a sharp rise between 2007 and 2008 due to decreasing supplies of staple grains and cereals; increased prices due to drought, flood, and global climate change; increased food and fuel consumption by middle-income countries; and greater cultivation for biofuels. Rice in particular rose sharply in price due to trade restrictions, panic buying, a weak dollar, and high oil prices. (Source: Dept. of Agriculture)

The Policy (What the Bill is intended to promote): The government's stated policy behind this bill is to reduce global hunger, advance nutrition, and increase food security. It aims to set up programs and policies to provide emergency response in times of disaster; increase the preparedness of populations so that less intervention is needed in the event of a disaster; aid people and governments in the goal of sustainably feeding themselves; help mothers and children meet their nutritional needs; support small-scale farmers; and encourage sustainable and environmentally sound agricultural practices.

What the Bill Does: The bill does two things. It (1) established a White House Office on Global Hunger and Food Security; and (2) establishes a Permanent Joint Select Committee on Hunger. So what will these two entities do?

White House Office on Global Hunger and Food Security: The functions of this office are to:
(1) Provide the President with advice on hunger and food security issues;
(2) Make sure that reducing hunger and increasing food security remain priorities of the federal government, including working with the various departments to make sure it is a priority within these departments;
(3) Develop a comprehensive strategy for the government to address hunger and food security issues;
(4) Assess the government's current programs for dealing with hunger and food security issues;
(5) Prepare and annual report on expenditures in this area, as well as a suggested budget, and then make sure the programs receive adequate funding;
(6) Establish indicators that can be used to measure the success of programs in this area and provide quarterly reports on the progress of each program;
(7) Coordinate efforts with other governments and international groups;
(8) Consult with experts on the development, implementation, and assessment of the programs established to address these issues;
(9) Promote public awareness of these issues; and
(10) Submit an annual report to congress and the President on the overall progress made toward the goal of cutting world hunger in half by 2015.

COST: $10,000,000 each year for the next four fiscal years is authorized to be appropriated for this office.

Permanent Joint Select Committee on Hunger: This committee is to be made up of eight House members and eight senate members. Its duties are:

(1) Hold hearings, investigate, issue reports and analyses, and make recommendations to Congress on issues related to hunger, nutrition, food security, agricultural development, emergency response, and other global hunger and food security issues.
(2) Examine issues relevant to the creation of a government plan to address global hunger and food security issues.

Funding will come from the House and Senate accounts.

TOTAL COST: The bill asks for funds of $50,360,000,000 for 2010-2014.

If you want to learn more, or want to ask your Congressperson to co-sponsor this bill, you can go to Friends of the World Food Program. They have additional information and materials on this bill, as well as tools to help you approach your representative.

RECIPE: Soy Jalapeno and Apple-Cucumber Pickles

Previously, I've written about the type of simple meals I enjoy, in particular, bread and cheese, cured meats, pickles and fruit. Well, my love of simple meals not only encompasses the west, but the east as well. Some nights, instead of themore European bread and cheese based meals, I prefer a more Japanese-inspired meal of rice, vegetable and soup, or something similar.

So when I saw these recipes for pickles, inspired by Korean bahn chan--which are the little dishes of pickles that come out with your rice when you are eating Korean food--I immediately thought of how good they would be with a bowl of rice as a small and simple dinner.


The two pickles I chose, soy jalapenos, and apple-cucumber, were a good complement to each other. One was spicy and salty and tangy while the other was light and sweet and vinegary. I would definitely make the apple cucumber ones repeatedly, as they make a nice warm weather snack, and the flavor is delicate, but the ginger adds a bit of a kick.


I was afraid the soy jalapenos might be too hot to eat more than a few at a time, but the soy sauce really mellowed the heat so thatit was easy to just keep crunching away at these and it went really well with the sticky rice.


Balancing out the jalapenos, were the cool, vinegary cucumbers and apples with ginger. These were a good contrast to the spicy, and you could do worse than keep a jar of these around during the hot months.

Apple Cucumber Pickles
Soy-Pickled Jalapeños

NEWS: Riva Wine Class Dinner Series - RESCHEDULED

NOTE: I have received word that this first wine dinner has to be rescheduled. I will post an update once I have the proper date. For now, it will not be starting this Sunday.

If you love wine, and have some dollars to spare (lucky you!) and are looking for something fun to do this weekend, I offer for your consideration Riva's wine class dinner this weekend featuring "Tre Bicchiere" wines.

Chef Jason Travi will create a five course meal, each thoughtfully paired with a Tre Bicchiere wine to match. As you eat, you will get a tutorial for each wine presented, so you'll get a little learnin' along with your fine meal.

Riva is an Italian-inspired restaurant cheffed by a husband and wife team with impressive credentials. Jason and Miho Travi are most recently known for the restaurant Fraiche in Culver City. Riva is a slightly more casual counterpart to Fraiche with more of a focus on dishes inspired by the food of rustic Italian coastal villages.

I have no problem shilling this event for them, because Riva has my seal of approval. I've only had the opportunity to eat there once, but it got a big thumbs up from me. Everything I had was fresh, seasonal, and beautifully presented without being too stuffy or snooty. The service was nice, friendly and helpful and we had a great time.

The first wine class dinner will take place on Sunday, May 31 at 6:30 pm. Riva is located at 312 Wilshire Blvd. in Santa Monica. Call (310) 451-RIVA for information and reservations.

Click on the photo below for the menu:

INFO: Skeptical Eating

Recently, I had a comment on one of my past posts that made me think it was time to step away from the pretty pictures and the recipes for a minute and get on my soapbox. The comment was from a "J-Bone" and was appended to my post about a local root beer. The comment read as follows, in response to my opinion on liking Virgil's Root Beer, another local root beer besides the one I was reviewing:

"Wow how can you choose Virgil's crap with all those chemicals in it???? Dr. Tima is all natural and as NO CORN SYRUP!! It's the best hands down in natural soda!! All the other stuff tastes like mouthwash"
Reading this made me think that maybe now is a good time to do a post on skeptical eating. The classical definition of a skeptic is: "One who instinctively or habitually doubts, questions, or disagrees with assertions or generally accepted conclusions." In other words, don't believe everything you read or see, investigate for yourself to find the truth. And most especially, do not make assumptions about what you believe to be the truth, without bothering to actually find out.

Virgil's Root Beer does not contain "chemicals," nor does it contain corn syrup. Virgil's is made of natural ingredients, just as the root beer it is being compared to is. The person who made this comment obviously chose to think Virgil's contains "chemicals" and corn syrup because it is a more well-known brand, but never stopped to read the actual ingredient label. (Or perhaps they are a root beer company rep slagging off another brand anonymously, based on the e-mail I received from the company at suspiciously the same time, but ... it could just be a coincidence.)

If you want to know what is in something, look at the ingredients, don't make assumptions or listen to what other people say about "chemicals." If you want to know if something is good or bad for you, study the information out there to find out the truth as best you can.

Also, don't distrust something solely based on meaningless labels. The comment above falls under the logical fallacy known as the "appeal to nature" or the "naturalistic fallacy." The naturalistic fallacy is the premise that natural = good, while man-made or non-natural = bad. This is simply not so. There are plenty of poisons and toxic substances found in nature, and plenty of man-made substances that are beneficial and even save people from dying.

Make no mistake, ANY drink that is composed of a sweetener, flavors, and water, whether it be cane sugar, high fructose corn syrup, honey, or any other caloric sweetener is not in any sense healthy for you. It is empty calories, no matter how natural or unnatural the sweetener used is. The key is not whether you drink a natural root beer, or a coke, or a Mountain Dew, but that if you drink any one of those, you drink them in moderation, as a treat and not a regular beverage.

In the case of foods, natural is often healthier, but that doesn't mean you can take that as a rule. Ingredients that you don't understand or recognize aren't always bad for you. They may be natural, and if they are not, they may not be harmful. For example, xanthan gum is an additive that people often fear. It would be easy to look at this and think it is some kind of "chemical" or potentially harmful additive, when in fact it is perfectly natural--a fermented corn sugar. Xanthan gum is often used in vegan and gluten-free products, to improve texture or to substitute for gluten. Similarly, baking soda is something no one seems to have a problem putting into their baked goods and eating happily. Perhaps if we called it by its other name of "sodium bicarbonate," people would fear this common food additive, which is in fact, a chemical compound.

The best way for you to make sense of it is to take charge by learning what everything is, and whether it could be harmful or unhealthy to you by reading up in reliable, unbiased sources. Don't listen to random e-mails, websites that are trying to sell you something, or your friend who's been going to yoga class. Read authoritative sources and weigh the evidence and don't fall prey to fearmongering, which is most often perpetrated by people who are trying to sell you something. Most of the time it won't be harmful to anything but your pocketbook, but it has the potential to be harmful to your health, and living in fear isn't good for anyone.

RECIPE: Irish Soda Bread

I love to eat like a peasant. Or perhaps not like a peasant, but like a fake pastoral fairy tale peasant. Culinary education nowadays tells that me that peasants ate beer, beans, peas and "pottage" which was basically a soup made of everything you have. While I have been known to eat these things, particularly that last thing, from time to time, that's NOT what I mean.

What I mean is when you read a story about a young farmboy or girl heading off into the forest to make their fortune or meet the witch or save the princess or whatever, at some point they seem to stop and eat a simple meal of bread and cheese and fruit or meat. That's what I'm talking about. That mythical fairy tale traveling food or what the lady in the cottage where you stop to rest gives you.

I love to eat like that. One of my favorite meals is just bread, cheese, cured meats, fruit and/or perhaps: nuts, crackers, wine, pickles, or other small bites. And the best way to start is by making a rustic peasanty homemade bread.


I'm not sure how much more rustic you can get than Irish. I saw this recipe for Irish soda bread and I knew I had to make it. My original plan was to be tradtional and have it with some corned beef and some sort of cabbage slaw or something, but when I got to the market, I don't really know what happened, but next thing I knew the guy was handing me salami and cheese and then there was this wine in my basket!

It totally wasn't my fault, it was those evil French people who hate the Irish and want me to eat their meats and cheeses instead.

This bread is made in a baguette shape so you can eat it in small pieces. It's a slightly sweet bread, that could go equally well at breakfast or dinner, and is really good with butter or a creamy cheese.


But I recommend it with some cured meats, cheese, pickles, and a nice glass of rosé. Preferably while on your way to slay the dragon, or perhaps you can make it to serve to wayward princes or youngest daughters on a mission to find their fate.

RECIPE: Downey's Soda Bread adapted from Downey's in Santa Barbara, CA

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