THING 52: Mozza Pizza

Many cities have their own "signature" version of pizza, and proponents of each type of pizza are willing to argue all night that theirs is the best - whether it be from the source in Naples; or a large, thin New York slice; or perhaps a hearty deep dish from Chicago.

Here in Los Angeles, we don't really have a "signature" pizza, except perhaps the use of untraditional toppings, made famous by Wolfgang Puck. But even so, you can get a "California-style" pizza at five different places and have five completely different pizzas even in the most definitive aspects, like crust thickness and cheese-to-sauce ratio.

It would be a fine thing if we decided to make Nancy Silverton's style of pizza the definitive Los Angeles pizza. In my book, it can compete with any pizza anywhere. It's not just the variety of really good, really fresh ingredients in both unusual and familiar combinations. It is mostly the crust. A crust that was carefully created through many tests to be chewy enough to give it some substance, but airy enough that one can eat the pizza without feeling heavy and full afterward.

I can think of nothing better than to go sit at the bar at Mozza, eat pizza, drink wine and watch pizza being made, or the bartender do his thing. Every pizza is made to order in a real wood oven. When the restaurant first opened, Nancy Silverton stood over each pizza, approving it before it was served. Now the cooks have it down to a science. Each pizza comes out of the oven light, airy, crispy and with toppings perfectly cooked.

The options will satisfy anyone, from the pickiest kid to the most adventurous gourmet. If you like variety, there are always some seasonal toppings on the menu, like flash fried sage in the winter, or artichoke and lemon in the spring. One of my favorites has a spicy salame with Fresno chiles. It's hot, but satisfying - a step up from the pepperoni pizza of my childhood. Other favorites include the squash blossom and burrata, fennel sausage, and the aforementioned pizza bianca with sage.



It's hard to write about one particular pizza-eating experience, as Mozza is a place we go to for a special treat fairly regularly. But one thing about this night was that we vastly miscalculated what the wait would be. It was cold and a bit rainy, and we thought we could just show up and not have to wait too long for a spot at the bar.

We were wrong. I think we waited about 90 minutes to finally sit down, as the tiny square where people can wait just continued to fill with people at a steady stream, but only empty out at an extremely slow trickle. By the time we sat down, the pizza had gone from "damn good pizza" to "we've been waiting so long, this is now the best pizza ever created." It was worth the wait, though, which is a high honor coming from me, since I hate waiting. It was also worth it to get to sit at the pizza bar for the first time. 99% of the time we end up sitting at the wine bar, to the point where we started wondering if the people at the other bar were paid extras who sat there all night. But this time we learned that no, it's possible to sit there and it's fun to watch your pizza get made, and try to guess what they are making now.

The wine selection is small but carefully chosen. You can't really go wrong, but the bartender will help you if Italian wines and their many alien grapes get you confused. In addition to pizza, the chopped salad is always a good option, and for dessert the butterscotch budino would probably be in my personal "things to try before you die" list.

But the real reason to come is always the pizza. From now on, this will always be "Los Angeles-style pizza" to me.

Pizzeria Mozza
641 N. Highland Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90036
1.323.297.0101

Hours of Operation:
Daily: Noon - Midnight

THING 87: Plain Doughnut from Bob's Coffee and Doughnuts

The first thing I chose out of the 99 things I must eat before I die was a no-brainer. Bob's Doughnuts is pretty much a regular destination, since my husband has a love for doughnuts like no other except perhaps Homer Simpson. But even though I've had many of Bob's delicious doughnuts, I have never yet had a plain one.

While this first choice of "thing" was in many ways the easiest, it still contained an element of challenge, which was to face up to all of those frosted, glazed and sprinkled donuts and absolutely turn my back on them in favor of a doughnut that is utterly and completely nude. I hope you won't be too harsh on me when I admit that I purchased two donuts - one plain and one one sprinkle. I hope Jonathan Gold can forgive for diluting the purity of his 87th thing.

But this blog post is not about a sprinkle doughnut, so what transpired between the sprinkle doughnut and I will forever be a mystery as far as you are concerned. I am here to talk about it's fancy-free brother, the plain doughnut.

Although I will probably stick to frosting in the future, I have to say I'm glad I took this opportunity to try a perfectly plain doughnut. Michael Pollan would advocate that everyone take to the farm or the forest to connect with exactly where their meal came from, so as not to become to disconnected from exactly what it is we're eating. Perhaps in a similar vein, we should also go for a plain doughnut every once in a while to remind ourselves that what we are eating is not cake or a mere pastry, but that what we are eating is in fact a fried product. It a pastry multiplied by more fat and it's probably best that we don't forget that.

And that is basically what eating a plain doughnut is like. It is a big reminder of what a doughnut actually is and where it comes from (the fryer). That's not to say it's gross - of course it's not! It's a fried thing, which by law must be delicious. It just allows you to reflect more clearly on the fact that a doughnut is delicious not just because of the rich flavor that the fat introduces, but also the texture - the slight crunch on the outside contrasted with the moist soft cake inside is something you will not get from any cupcake, now matter how big it is baked nor how much frosting is piled atop it.

99 THINGS

So last week, Jonathan Gold published his list of 99 Things to Eat in L.A. Before You Die. When I saw this, a flash of inspiration struck me, because to be perfectly honest, I've had a hard time keeping this blog going. *checks date of last post--yep*

I still enjoy it, and I love eating and cooking and drinking and taking pictures of food, but somehow something happened that I never actually thought would be--I now get paid, as my job, to write things and I spend a whole lot of my time writing things for money. That doesn't make me enjoy writing any less, especially since writing for fun is a lot more enjoyable than the stuff I normally have to write. However, when you've just spent 6-8 hours in a row writing stuff, what you want to do is plop in front of the TV or game or do some reading instead of writing. I just get kind of ... tired of it.

So I've been thinking what I've been wanting is a project-something I would want to do anyway but that would give me enough incentive to continue and see it through and would give me lots of material to write about. And folks, I think this is it. Seeing as how I'm not getting any farther away from death, I should probably start eating these things now - just in case. So I'm going to make my way through this list and try to experience what Mr. Gold wishes we all could experience.

Now for some rules. First off, not all of these things will be easy, desirable, or even possible for me to eat, and certainly not in order. So I am choosing my own order, and I'm starting with the things that are easiest for me to get (and that I most want to eat). I will work my way up to the challenging ones and will do by best to bravely snarf down even the wriggliest creatures. I reserve the right, however, to decide that there is a substitution that I believe is even more worthy of being eaten before death, because I do have my own opinions. And, for example, if I'm going to get pizza I've wanted to try for years, I'm not going to have eggplant on it, since I don't like eggplant. So there. Anyway, I am setting out the entire list below, which I will update with links as I have them. I'll put it on the side so you can come pore over it whenever you like.

THE LIST:

1. Fugu (Urasawa, 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills)
2. Goat’s milk gelato (Bulgarini Gelato, 749 E. Altadena Drive, Altadena. (626) 791-6174)
3. Romanesco cauliflower (Weiser family farms)
4. San nak ji (Masan, 2851 W. Olympic Blvd., Koreatown. (213) 388-3314)
5. Sherry Yard’s Kaiserschmarren (Spago, 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills. (310) 385-0880)
6. Tito’s old school tacos (Tito's Tacos, 11222 Washington Place, Culver City. (310) 391-5780)
7. Luna oysters
8. Sesame cream puffs (Pâtisserie Chantilly, 2383 Lomita Blvd., No. 104, Lomita. (310) 257-9454)
9. Vietnamese spring rolls (Golden Deli, 815 W. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel. (626) 308-0803)
10. Hot pastrami (Langer's Delicatessen-Restaurant, 704 S. Alvarado St., L.A. (213) 483-8050)
11. Bone marrow flan (Cut, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills. (310) 276-8500)
12. Little flower sea salt caramels
13. Spicy lobster (Newport Seafood, 518 W. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel. (626) 289-5998)
14. New style sashimi (Matsuhisa, 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills. ( 310) 659-9639)
15. Gnocchi (Angeli Caffe, 7274 Melrose Ave., L.A. (323) 936-9086)
16. Lechon (Eva’s Lechon, 4252 W. Third St., L.A. (213) 383-3179)
17. Tortillas (Rivera, 1050 S. Flower St., dwntwn. (213) 749-1460)
18. Apple pie and eel (Wa Sushi, 1106 N. La Cienega Blvd., No. 201, W. Hlywd. (310) 854-7285)
19. Sausage and eggplant pizza (Casa Bianca, 1650 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock. (323) 256-9617)
20. Huarache de cabeza (El Huarache Azteca #1, 5225 York Blvd., Highland Park. (323) 478-9572)
21. Kalbi taco (Kogi)
22. Lamb tongue sandwich (Canary, 1942 Westwood Blvd., Wstwd. (310) 470-1312)
23. L.A. Street dog (Fab Dogs, 6747 Tampa Ave., Reseda. (818) 344-4336)
24. Hollenbeck burrito (El Tepeyac Café, 812 N. Evergreen Ave., City Terrace. (323) 268-1960)
25. Whatever Lou tells you to drink (Lou, 724 Vine St., Hlywd. (323) 962-6369)
26. Pain au chocolat (Anisette Brasserie, 225 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica. (310) 395-3200)
27. Paleron with kumquats and cream of wheat (Lazy Ox Canteen, 241 S. San Pedro St., dwntwn. (213) 626-5299)
28. Welsh rarebit (Musso & Frank Grill, 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hlywd. (323) 467-7788)
29. Flautas (Ciro's, 705 N. Evergreen St., E.L.A. (323) 269-5104)
30. Dill fries (The Gorbals, in the Alexandria Hotel, 501 S. Spring St., dwntwn. (213) 488-3408)
31. Fish kidneys (Jitlada, 5233 Sunset Blvd., Hlywd. (323) 667-9809)
32. Chicharrones de queso (Lotería Grill, 6627 Hollywood Blvd., Hlywd. (323) 465-2500)
33. Corn chowder (Ivy, 113 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A. (310) 274-8303)
34. French dip (Philippe's, 1001 N. Alameda St., L.A. (213) 628-3781)
35. French dip (Cole's, 118 E. Sixth St., L.A. (213) 622-4090)
36. Birria (El Parian, 1528 W. Pico Blvd., L.A. (213) 386-7361)
37. Country white bread (La Brea Bakery, 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A. (323) 939-6813)
38. Hot dog on a stick
39. Sizzling catfish (Chinois, 2709 Main St., Santa Monica. (310) 392-9025)
40. Hickoryburger (Apple Pan, 10801 W. Pico Blvd., L.A. (310) 475-3585)
41. Hearth-baked bagel (Brooklyn Bagel Bakery, 2217 Beverly Blvd., L.A. (213) 413-4114)
42. Vegetables en papillote (Palate, 933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale. (818) 662-9463)
43. Quinoa with edamame (Akasha, 9543 Culver Blvd., Culver City. (310) 845-1700)
44. Strawberry donut (Donut Man, 915 E. Route 66, Glendora. (626) 335-9111)
45. Chili (Chili John's, 2018 W. Burbank Blvd., Burbank. (818) 846-3611)
46. Beef roll (101 Noodle Express, 1025 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia. (626) 446-8855. Also at 1408 Valley Blvd., Alhambra. (626) 300-8654)
47. Eva Solo-brewed Coffee (La Mill, 1636 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake. (323) 663-4441)
48. Oki dog (Oki Dog, 5056 W. Pico Blvd., L.A. (323) 938-4369)
49. Cheeseburger (Comme Ça, 8479 Melrose Ave., W. Hlywd. (323) 782-1178)
50. Saffron silk ice cream (Saffron Spot, 18744 Pioneer Blvd., Artesia. (562) 809-4554)
51. Yellow fish fried with hair seaweed (Giang Nan, 306 N. Garfield Ave., No. A-12, Monterey Park. (626) 573-3421)
52. Mozza pizza (Pizzeria Mozza, 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A. (323) 297-0101)
53. Pork pump (Shanghai Xiao Chi, 828 W. Valley Blvd., Alhambra. (626) 588-2284)
54. Knife cut noodles (JTYH Restaurant, 9425 Valley Blvd., Rosemead. (626) 442-8999)
55. Soon Tofu (Beverly Soon Tofu Restaurant, 2717 W. Olympic Blvd., L.A. (213) 380-1113)
56. Pho bac (Pho Minh, 9646 E. Garvey Ave., No. 108, South El Monte. (626) 448-8807)
57. Pig candy (Bigmista, Sun. at Atwater farmers market; Tues. & Sat. at Torrance farmers market; Thurs. at El Segundo farmers market. Menus, hours and preordering info at bigmista.com)
58. Egg salad sandwich (Euro Pane, 950 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena. (818) 577-1828)
59. Cha chiang mein (Mandarin House, 3074 W. Eighth St., Koreatown. (213) 386-8976)
60. Oyster po’ boy (Little Dom's, 2128 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz. (323) 661-0055)
61. Cheese enchiladas from lady who hangs out near @BreedStScene (twitter)
62. Al Bap (A-Won, 913½ S. Vermont Ave., Koreatown. (213) 389-6764)
63. Brandt beef (HOWS Supermarket)
64. Krakatoa-blend coffee (Beans sold at Surfas, and through monkeyandson.com.)
65. Potato tacos (El Atacor #11, 2622 N. Figueroa St., L.A. (323) 441-8477)
66. Thali (Rajdhani, 18525 Pioneer Blvd., Artesia. (562) 402-9102)
67. Ludo’s fried chicken (ludolefebvre.com.)
68. Prime rib (Lawry's, 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills. (310) 652-2827.)
69. Grilled prime rib (Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A. (323) 938-1447)
70. Seviche (Mo-Chica, in Mercado La Paloma, 3655 S. Grand Ave., L.A. (213) 747-2141)I
71. Banh mi (Mr. Baguette, several locations, including 400 S. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park (626-282-9966) and 8702 E. Valley Blvd., Rosemead (626-288-9166)
72. Foie gras and biscuits and gravy (Animal, 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A. (323) 782-9225)
73. Panuchos (Chichen Itza, in Mercado La Paloma, 3655 S. Grand Ave., L.A. (213) 741-1075)
74. Pad thai (Krua Thai, 13130 Sherman Way, N. Hlywd. (818) 759-7998)
75. Ancient ginger soup (Noodle Island, 800 W. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel. (626) 293-8839)
76. Mcgrath’s rainbow chard (mcgrathfamilyfarm.com)
77. Green corn tamales (Border Grill, 1445 4th St., Santa Monica. (310) 451-1655)
78. Burrito (Lupe's #2, 4642 E. Third St., L.A. 323-266-6881)
79. Chicken Pot Pie (Good Girl Dinette, 110 N. Avenue 56, Highland Park. (323) 257-8980)
80. Harry’s seascape strawberries
81. Squid with piquillo peppers and pig’s ear (Providence, 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A. (323) 460-4170)
82. Corned beef hash (The Grill on the Alley, 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills. (310) 276-0615)
83. Salmon sashimi (Kiriko, 11301 W. Olympic Blvd., No. 102, W.L.A. (310) 478-7769)
84. Maple bacon donut (Nickel Diner, 524 S. Main St., dwntwn. (213) 623-8301)
85. Godmother (Bay Cities Italian Deli & Bakery, 1517 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica. (310) 395-8279)
86. Soup dumplings (Din Tai Fung, 1108 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia. (626) 574-7068)
87. Plain doughnut (Bob's Coffee & Doughnuts, Farmers Market, Third & Fairfax, L.A. (323) 933-8929)
88. Hot dog (Let's Be Frank, Helms Ave., between Venice and Washington boulevards, Culver City)
89. Doro wot (Meals by Genet, 1053 S. Fairfax Ave., L.A. (323) 938-9304)
90. Boat noodles (Sapp Coffee Shop, 5183 Hollywood Blvd., Hlywd. (323) 665-1035)
91. Brisket (Bludso's B-B-Q, 811 S. Long Beach Blvd., Compton. (310) 637-1342)
92. L.A. Galbi (Park's BBQ, 955 S. Vermont Ave., Koreatown. (213) 380-1717)
93. Hot almond milk in pastry (Capital Seafood Restaurant, 755 W. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park. (626) 282-3318)
94. Sashimi (Kiyokawa, 265 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills. (310) 358-1900)
95. Chongqing fried chicken (Chung King, 1000 S. San Gabriel Blvd., San Gabriel. (626) 286-0298)
96. Peruvian roast chicken (Pollo a la Brasa, 764 S. Western Ave., Koreatown. (213) 382-4090)
97. Sprats (Natraliart, 3426 W. Washington Blvd., L.A. (323) 732-8865)
98. Lobster roll (Hungry Cat, 1535 N. Vine St., Hlywd. (323) 462-2155)
99. Maple bacon biscuits (Huckleberry, 1014 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica. (310) 451-2311)